-
Do you need help identifying a 🌶?
Is your plant suffering from an unknown issue? 🤧
Then ask in Identification and Diagnosis.
fertilizer looking to switch to a better fertilizer
- Thread starter luvmesump3pp3rz
- Start date
Edmick said:
I bought some way back in the day. It's 0-10-10, and isn't really an organic nutrient. The potassium and phosphorus are derived from inorganic sources. So even if you just wanted a base for a fertilizer, it's probably not a cost effective option. I mean, since it's inorganic, anyway, you just as well buy the inorganic nutrients - which are super cheap - and add them to the normal Alaska fish. If you're inclined to go that way...
.
.
Kinda what i thought too when i looked at it. They do offer a micro nutrient solution also but it has no calcium. Not sure how much it costs. Phosphorous and potash are cheap. Even natural sources of P-K such as alfalfa meal are dirt cheap.
ShowMeDaSauce said:
I have never supplemented calcium when using the Alaska fish. The numbers might not seem staggering, but it works. Since it tends to get fed weekly, that is probably the main consideration. If you use the pellets in conjunction with the fish juice, you will truly never want for any added amendments.
Also, Alfalfa meal is a complete NPK. It generally ranges from 3-1-2 to 3-2-2. It only requires minors and trace supplementation. The downside to it is that it tends to expend rather quickly. If I do alfalfa meal, I prefer that it's first been processed through a rabbit. That lasts a VERY long time.
If you've got it, it's not useless. I find bloom boosters to be unnecessary for peppers, but if you have a gallon of the stuff, and you want to use it to roll your own fert, then no, it's not useless. But I struggle to see how it's very beneficial with zero nitrogen in it, when used as a standalone.Sinn said:
.
I mean, I've got a jug of it, too, right? LOL
.
My intention was to create a more balanced fert, but I ended up not needing to.
.
What I came to find out, is that: Phosphorus is the most overdosed macro of the bunch. Potassium is highly overdosed, also. The misunderstanding revolves around the fact that plants don't take up more of anything that they need. With one small exception - and with a giant caveat to the exception. That is potassium. Potassium isn't structural, and it just kinda floats around in the sap. Peppers may or may not uptake luxury amounts of K, as some plants do. (like bananas, in particular) Unlike other macros, plants can actually store excessive K, and hold it in reserve. But they really only do this up to a certain age. If you've got any decent amount of K in your plant food, it's going to build up, until the plant blooms. Then, and only then, will the plant use truly utilize it. So the idea that we need bloom boosters isn't really true... We are storing potassium for the bloom from day one. The problem is, it isn't really all that well known just how much "luxury consumption" of this element occurs. There is still a point of toxicity. And the rule of "the plant only takes what it needs" still applies. (because there is a reserve threshold for K)
.
Mind you... I did say "some" plants uptake extra amounts of K, up to a certain time. I can't say for certainty that peppers do. But assuming they do, by the time most people lay down bloom, they're already blooming, and that's contrary to the plant's biomechanics. Once you're into the bloom, I've found that I can very much support some pretty wicked production, even with relatively low numbers of K.
.
That's the long story. The short story is that I grew for a full season with absolutely NOTHING but Alaska 5-1-1... and the plants absolutely killed it.
.
Your results may vary.
Heading to Menards tomorrow for a couple more bags of the pellets. Looks like more rain is on its way and stuff is still too wet for liquid fertilizers. Most of what i have now that i could use for a top dress is just a bit too hot and mostly nitrogen.
Bought today at my local store:
All purpose mineral fertilizer. What you think about it's contents? I've found that peppers especially love cal and mag, so that thing got my eyes.
(i decided to go chemical due chlorinated water i'm using for watering, unfortunately not able to collect rainwater to go organic)
All purpose mineral fertilizer. What you think about it's contents? I've found that peppers especially love cal and mag, so that thing got my eyes.
(i decided to go chemical due chlorinated water i'm using for watering, unfortunately not able to collect rainwater to go organic)
styxhexnchilli said:Bought today at my local store:
All purpose mineral fertilizer. What you think about it's contents? I've found that peppers especially love cal and mag, so that thing got my eyes.
(i decided to go chemical due chlorinated water i'm using for watering, unfortunately not able to collect rainwater to go organic)
It's got all of the macros covered. There's not telling if it's complete, but it will be fine as a balanced fert.
.
Why is the water the determining factor in your fertilizer? Plants will easily metabolize the low levels of chlorine and chloramine that is in municipal water supplies.
Chilidude said:
You can't aerate or agitate chloramine out of water. (only chlorine) But it doesn't matter. Contrary to popular belief, it doesn't hurt plants. I even make my aerated teas with city water. No problem.
.
Some guy did an experiment and put it on youtube. He actually had an analysis done on chlorinated/chloriminated water, vs non. The results were, that the chlorinated/chloriminated water, when made into a tea, produced fewer microbes - but at a statistically insignificant level. Meaning, the difference was so small, that it didn't even matter.
.
Use what you have, in a case like that.
Biggest issue with my tap water is its 9pH+
What is the form of nitrogen in this fertilizer?styxhexnchilli said:Bought today at my local store:
All purpose mineral fertilizer. What you think about it's contents? I've found that peppers especially love cal and mag, so that thing got my eyes.
(i decided to go chemical due chlorinated water i'm using for watering, unfortunately not able to collect rainwater to go organic)
No specific info on that. What form should it be to be easily absorbed by plants?lek said:
I've never tested or analyzed my tap water on chlorine levels or other elements. But i'm pretty sure it is nasty, hardly calcinated(kettle stains), the only thing i know is PH, my PH is 7.2. I'm using on-tap carbon filter to make it little softer.solid7 said:
Chlorine kills beneficial bacterias which decomposes organic mater making it available forms for plants. Am i wrong?
styxhexnchilli said:
It doesn't matter what form the nitrogen is in, if you're using an inorganic. It will be a readily available source. For the NPK, you can use that fert without worry. Like I said, it says nothing about what other elements (micro and trace) are in it. But that's going to become much more of an issue, depending on whether you are in-ground or in container.
Your pH isn't that bad, if it's 7.2. That's almost perfectly neutral.
Carbon filters won't soften your water. They will reduce chlorine. They'll remove some elements. But they have little effect, in the long run. RO is the only way to effectively filter your water for absolute purity. But it comes with its own problems.
You are not entirely wrong, but you're not entirely right about the chlorine, either. The doses of chlorine that are in city water are not high enough to decimate microbial activity. (you may have missed where I just posted about this) People frequently live in fear of killing beneficials in the soil, but nobody ever seems to be able to quantify it. Except the guy in the youtube video. He quantified it. Non-issue, for me.
solid7 said:
Thanks solid7.
Solid tips for a newbe. Can you PM me the link on that video.